The eye catching and magnificent Aariem broidery is one of the several craft forms that originated during the Mughal era. The designs depict the scenario of those times, as well as the influence of Mughals. It is created by stretching the fabric over a wooden frame and embroidered with a hooked needle incorporating various stitches but mostly chain stitch. The wooden frame serves the purpose of doing this embroidery at a fast pace. The main characteristic of this type of work is that its is extremely ditailed and intricate.
The motifs craw inspiration from the environment such as flowers, petals, leaves, trees, creepers, vines and buds, while fauna based motifs incorporates birds and animals. With the help of these motifs, aari designs are differentiated from other contemporary forms of embroidery used in ethnic ensembles. This nature of embroidery certainly holds an eminent position in contemporary fashion as it is one of the most famous traditional techniques of India.
Artificial beads and stones are used to embroider scintillating effect while designing. These stones and beads are placed within immense planning and the extensive and elaborate embroidery creates a dramatic look. However, in this embroidery, it is actually the thread work which is the center of attraction. The sparkling stones adds a gleaming effect there in the apparel. The stones actually don’t matter as this embroidery is anyway very elaborate.
Aari works are done on occasional garments as it is not limited to one particular type of textile. From silks to cotton to cotton silk to posh fabrics like Chanderi, velvet, Tussar and many other. It is certainly a type of work that is considered perfect for all seasons. Thus, ladies are seen getting dolled up in this embroidery throughout summer as well as in winters. It is done on warmer as well as cooler fabrics quite easily. Females across different geographical locations and demographics have embraced this embellishment.
This nature of embroidery can be used to create a variety outfits including designs for sarees as well as salwar kameez to dupattas and kurtis. In Sarees, the pallu and the body has heavier embroidery as these are the two main central focus of the saree when it is worn. The blouse itself can be relatively simpler or it can be decorated with the same pattern of embroidery work on the sleeves and around the neck or waists. For salwar kameez and suits, hand work is used to create delicate designs all over the kurta as well as the dupatta. In the case of an anarkali suit, this work is centralised mainly on the body as well as the border of the kurta, while the motifs being strategically arranged on the dupatta. Similarly, with salwar kameez sets, the embroidery is handcrafted all over the upper garment but not on the bottom part. It can or cannot be used on the dupatta but it all depends on the style of the suit. Hope the excellent artisans of aari embroidery continue to rule the fashion sector and not get blurred due to the wrath of mechanisation.